Hot engine
#1
Hot engine
I recently rebuilt and installed my 302 on my 1990 GT. Heres a list of some of the new parts I used
Underdrive pullies
70mm egr and TB
explorer upper and lower intake
e303
1.6 pedestal RR
cold air intake
ford racing wires
msd cap and rotor
oe copper plugs
problem/s I'm having now are it starts fine (little rough idle) but after running about 3-4 minutes the engine gets too hot to touch all over. Temp gauge says its fine Coolant is flowing but everything just seems wayyy too hot. Any ideas?
Another thing is codes. I get 22,23,85 I've searched what all these mean but tons of different answers on how to go about them.
Any help on any of this is greatly appreciated.
Underdrive pullies
70mm egr and TB
explorer upper and lower intake
e303
1.6 pedestal RR
cold air intake
ford racing wires
msd cap and rotor
oe copper plugs
problem/s I'm having now are it starts fine (little rough idle) but after running about 3-4 minutes the engine gets too hot to touch all over. Temp gauge says its fine Coolant is flowing but everything just seems wayyy too hot. Any ideas?
Another thing is codes. I get 22,23,85 I've searched what all these mean but tons of different answers on how to go about them.
Any help on any of this is greatly appreciated.
#2
check and make sure the vaccum line going to the egr valve is not applying vaccum to the egr valve holding it open, if it is, sounds like the evr vaccum selonoid is bad. This would explain the excessive heat as the egr is dumping hot exhaust gases into the intake, also would explain rough idle.
#3
That's odd. The egr valve had a vacuum cap on it from when I got it so I just left it and didn't hook one up on the rebuild.I'll run a vacuum line to the egr after I get home from work and see what happens. I thought coolant flow was my problem at first but its not. It's weird after like four minutes any part of the engine gets so hot you'll get burned from touching it.
Last edited by 1990gtf; 03-27-2013 at 05:20 AM.
#4
sounds like you have an air pocket some where in the coolant system . Do you have a mechanical temp gauge or are you going by the stock dash cluster gauge?
3-4 min seems awfully soon for the engine to get that hot though. Mine doesn't even open the thermostat for about 10 min. Check your timing , to much advance will cause the engine to get hot fast, as will a blown head gasket.
3-4 min seems awfully soon for the engine to get that hot though. Mine doesn't even open the thermostat for about 10 min. Check your timing , to much advance will cause the engine to get hot fast, as will a blown head gasket.
#5
That's odd. The egr valve had a vacuum cap on it from when I got it so I just left it and didn't hook one up on the rebuild.I'll run a vacuum line to the egr after I get home from work and see what happens. I thought coolant flow was my problem at first but its not. It's weird after like four minutes any part of the engine gets so hot you'll get burned from touching it.
#6
Sorry to dig up an old post of mine but I'm still having a problem and might have found the issue but need some opinions. The engine doesn't start to get hot until 10-15 minutes of idling. I've replaced the radiator since I last posted on this. After looking online I went and turned the radiator fan when it was cold and it just kept spinning, same thing when its warmed up. I know it more than likely needs replaced but do you guys think this is the culprit of this problem?
Last edited by 1990gtf; 06-02-2013 at 10:24 PM.
#7
The clutch on your fan is shot. Yes it won't pull the air thru to cool radiator. There should be some resistance when spinning by hand. Well do you mean on a cool motor you give the fan a spin an it keeps spinning by itself for a couple revolutions? It should stop spinning as soon as your hand leaves the blade.
#8
This thing makes like 7-8 maybe more revolutions when you spin it when its cold. I've been trying to figure this problem out for months and it looks like this is it. I've already started ordering parts for the 3g alt swap and electric fan swap.
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