runway1

Edelbrock says don't use the coil to wire the hot side of the electric choke because it always stays hot (always has a 12v supply). They say use something that turns on when the ignition switch turns on. That all makes perfect sense as you don't want your choke on 24/7 or you don't have a choke.

I checked my coil's (Pertronix coil and module) hot side and it goes to 0v when the ignition is off and to 11.3v when the ignition is turn on. It definitely does not stay hot. Given that, why wouldn’t I use this to wire the electric choke?

kalli

they must mean "always hot while ignition is on" and not "always hot when ignition is off".
coil+ only carries 8V or 12V+ when ignition is on. just like you measured it.
11.3V is enough for the choke to operate. So go with that. no problem. sounds like you removed the resistor wire. so when the car is running you might even have 13.5V there.

You'll be fine with that hookup

kalli

jonward786

11.3V =/= 12V

Unless you mean 11.3V with the switch on but the car not on, in which case you probbaly pull well over 13 V at the coil like me. So im sure it would work

briantlucas

That is what i used on my 4x4 chev works great never had any probs!! i also run my fuel pump off of it to!!

GypsyR

Personally I don't anything into my coil's power wires other than maybe the hookup for for a remote starter/alarm system. Your choke draws power anytime when the car is running. The coil is also drawing power. When you hook both at the same spot there is potential for voltage drop. Less voltage to the coil is NOT a recipe for performance. You may not actually able to tell the difference and it may be small when driving but there's no way I will shortchange my coil's voltage.
You can hook it up that way if you use a relay. Draw operating voltage from the stud on the starter solenoid, or the battery, or somewhere else. Then hook the relay's "trigger wire" to the positive side of the coil. There will still be a slight power draw from the coil's wire but it will be miniscule. This is also an accepted way of wiring in an electric fuel pump.
Wiring a relay adds complexity though. I just wire my chokes the same way Ford did in literally millions of vehicles in the 1960's, '70's, and early '80's. A single wire to the STA (stator) terminal on the back of the alternator. I seem to recall when I put an Edelbrock carb on my wife's car the included instructions said not to. I took a shot and five years later it still works fine. I've since hooked up two more Edelabrocks (and a couple of Holleys) the same way which also work fine. An electric choke is merely a bi-metallic coil spring that "unwinds" as power is applied to it and it heats up. I've looked and Edelbrock's choke coil appears identical to Ford's (and Holley's) so I never did see what would make them say theirs won't work right on the stator terminal.

runway1

GypsyR, I agree with all that you say except for a voltage drop at the coil. The current draw for that choke I'm sure is very small. To cause a voltage drop would require a huge load and that choke spring just wouldn't need that. Although I will meter it a few minutes as it's unwinding, just for kicks.

The alternator stator is another option but the coil is closer, easier and cleaner. I can't see a technical reason why not. So, thanks all; I'll wire that to the coil.

photocliff

You only want voltage to the choke if the motor is turning or the alt is generating elec. There is an unused stud on the back of the alt. I believe it's the stator. That puts a lower voltage (about half) only when it is turning and is a perfect place to draw power for the choke.

jfdfire2

I wired my electric choke and pertonic ignition to the pink wire under the dash which comes off the ignition switch. Works great gives both 12 volt power when key is in the run/start position