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EXHAUST FUMES KILLING ME......

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Old 05-09-2009, 10:40 PM
  #21  
fordlvr
 
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Thanks for posting back so quickly. It has an MSD 6A box, MSD Coil, and MSD billett distributor. I haven't changed the plugs or wires in 6 years. the plugs look good though. I am not sure if the timing is exactly accurate, as the balancer that is on it now is not marked correctly. I need to spend a little bit of time and mark it again. I have changed the timing though and it seems to run a bit better. I am not sure if I need to pull the distributor and change some of the advance springs. all of the components are straight from the box. (6 years ago) The rotor looks good as does the cap. everything seats fine on the cap and the wires physically look ok. They are MSD as well. The plugs are NGK V-Power with .35 gap. It was running today and I pulled the PCV valve from the valve cover and stuck my thumb over the end. I'm not sure exactly why I did that, but the car almost died. I'm not sure if that is what is supposed to happen or not. I don't have another coil, but was reading on MSD's website last night about how to check for spark. I know I am getting spark because the car runs fine. if I idle in one spot for very long, there will be wet spots behind it where the gas is shooting from the tailpipes.

I am wondering if I have some rockers that are not set correctly? possibly not closing all the way and allowing gas to escape prior to combustion. Several years ago I cut a hole in the top of an old valve cover. I will throw that on and readjust the valves in the next day or so.

Any specific things that I might target when looking at my ignition system?

Thanks again for any suggestions or comments you may have. I hope we can get this solved and possibly help out CyprusMustang as well.
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:01 AM
  #22  
2+2GT
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I don't care if your car is, as I have said elsewhere, putting out exhaust that smells like fart or flowers. It should not be getting inside the car! Your #1 priority is getting the body sealed so it isn't sucking exhaust into the car. Until you fix this, you are risking bad things happening, such as death.
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:46 PM
  #23  
Stepman
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
I don't care if your car is, as I have said elsewhere, putting out exhaust that smells like fart or flowers. It should not be getting inside the car! Your #1 priority is getting the body sealed so it isn't sucking exhaust into the car. Until you fix this, you are risking bad things happening, such as death.
I have to say bull**** to that....if your car is running "clean" you will not get the smell in the car. I don't care how well you "seal" it, a bad exhaust smell will still find its way into the car.

Sorry.
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Stepman
I have to say bull**** to that....if your car is running "clean" you will not get the smell in the car. I don't care how well you "seal" it, a bad exhaust smell will still find its way into the car.

Sorry.
I double bull* you, or is it double-dog?. If your clean-smelling exhaust gets into the car, you will DIE. It's all still carbon monoxide, an odorless gas, and will kill you, just as dead as stinky exhaust. You'll just smell better at the funeral.

Last edited by 2+2GT; 05-10-2009 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:31 PM
  #25  
CyprusMustang
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Dudes calm down, I asked a question and needed some advice. What you guys argueing about. Let me tell you this, I have the same issue with my audi, its an 01 and whenever I am stopped at a light with the windows down the smell just comes in. If i have my windows up, no smell comes in. Take in mind this car is not that old and its as tight as tight can get.

can a timing issue cause this? the smell is definately unburnt fuel. what should i do step by step.
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by CyprusMustang
What you guys argueing about. Let me tell you this, I have the same issue with my audi, its an 01 and whenever I am stopped at a light with the windows down the smell just comes in. If i have my windows up, no smell comes in. Take in mind this car is not that old and its as tight as tight can get. Can a timing issue cause this? the smell is definately unburnt fuel. what should i do step by step.
Exactly. Any car can get fumes when not moving, simply by having the wind blow it back at you.

Unless the ignition is cutting out/missing badly, the problem is with the carburetor. Is the choke stuck partly on? Are the idle jets adjusted properly (rich at idle)?. Are the floats set properly (rich while moving)? Oversize jets (rich while moving)? A too-big carb can be non-adjustable, i.e., if you have a 750 double-pumper on a 289 it's never going to tune really well.

Back to the smell- If you are getting fumes in the car while moving, you need to check the trunk lid seal, taillight seals, backup light seals, bumper bracket seals, grommets, plugs, gas tank lip seal, quarter trim seals, etc. Trunk lid is the logical place to start, and easy to check. Slam the lid on a $1 bill, with the end sticking out. If it resists being pulled out, it's OK. If it slides out easily, you have a leak. Work your way around the lid.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:06 PM
  #27  
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Maybe you are just a stink magnet.. LOL..
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
Exactly. Any car can get fumes when not moving, simply by having the wind blow it back at you.

Unless the ignition is cutting out/missing badly, the problem is with the carburetor. Is the choke stuck partly on? Are the idle jets adjusted properly (rich at idle)?. Are the floats set properly (rich while moving)? Oversize jets (rich while moving)? A too-big carb can be non-adjustable, i.e., if you have a 750 double-pumper on a 289 it's never going to tune really well.

Back to the smell- If you are getting fumes in the car while moving, you need to check the trunk lid seal, taillight seals, backup light seals, bumper bracket seals, grommets, plugs, gas tank lip seal, quarter trim seals, etc. Trunk lid is the logical place to start, and easy to check. Slam the lid on a $1 bill, with the end sticking out. If it resists being pulled out, it's OK. If it slides out easily, you have a leak. Work your way around the lid.
Another way is to do a chalk test.. Get a piece of chalk and run it along the knife edge that bites into the rubber gasket. Close your trunk and then open it up to see where the chalk rubbed off onto the gasket. If you have clean gasket then you have leaks.. Check for a solid line of chalk all the way round the gasket. Thats how we check water tight doors in the Navy.
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:17 PM
  #29  
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dudes, i dont agree with the sealing the car and smells will go away. so in that case since my car is a convertible, its normal for it to wreak as i drive with the roof down?

My car has some problems and I want to figure them out. the hell with the seals, i think the problem is with the electricals or the idle mixtures. Here are the facts:

car starts fine, idles fine and runs OK however at approx 15-20 mph with low rpm's there is some misfire, unless i slam on the pedal, car shakes. Seems as though the car doesnt run fine with low rpm's in low speed.

Also, i noticed that if im stopped and put the car in neutral, and slam on the gas, car will let out a small white cloud of smoke from the tailpipes. Car doesnt smoke while driving, temps are ok and so is oil pressure.

NOT SURE what to do but this evening i went out for a ride and my shirt and hat wreak now. wife is complaining that i smell bad...

please help...
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:33 PM
  #30  
rmodel65
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sounds like that puff is just it getting a little richer(the accelerator pump injects some extra fuel) makes a little smoke from being rich
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