Closing in on overheating issue
#1
Closing in on overheating issue
Over the last weekend I finally spent some Amex points on amazon and got a second spal fan. Ive been running too warm at highway speeds (60 and above) and despite having flushed the coolant system and fiddled with timing it still ran warm. I got a 14in pusher (9amp) to go in front of my A/C to help with the hipo Spal 16in (22amp) puller on the radiator. The difference was big....at idle the engine would cool with both fans running to the point the termostat temp dips below 180 which is when it will close. This was in 80+ degree weather. This helped me conclude concern I have:
- There is too much space between the AC condensor and the radiator (almost 2 inches+)
Essentially air takes the easiest path and would go through and around the condensor. The puller was only pulling whatever air came through the condensor hence why despite its power it would not cut it. With the second fan force air through the condesor at a high velocity the rad stayed cooler.
Want further proof? The 14 pusher fan was almost more effective at idle by itself than the 16in puller.
I still run on the warm side on the highway but hopefully with the use of some spacers I can sandwich the rad and condensor to the point they are almost touching which should yield better results.
Also....I regret getting a higher stall converter....at 60mph im at 2100rpms which means in all likely hood I am still getting a bit of slipping. The trans cooler I have has helped but first chance I get I am going back to a stock which is honestly what my car is cam'd for anyway. MPGs have suffered too.
- There is too much space between the AC condensor and the radiator (almost 2 inches+)
Essentially air takes the easiest path and would go through and around the condensor. The puller was only pulling whatever air came through the condensor hence why despite its power it would not cut it. With the second fan force air through the condesor at a high velocity the rad stayed cooler.
Want further proof? The 14 pusher fan was almost more effective at idle by itself than the 16in puller.
I still run on the warm side on the highway but hopefully with the use of some spacers I can sandwich the rad and condensor to the point they are almost touching which should yield better results.
Also....I regret getting a higher stall converter....at 60mph im at 2100rpms which means in all likely hood I am still getting a bit of slipping. The trans cooler I have has helped but first chance I get I am going back to a stock which is honestly what my car is cam'd for anyway. MPGs have suffered too.
#3
If you're getting hot on the highway it could be a sign you're thermostat is stuck open. I'd start there. Putting another fan in front of the radiator will not solve your getting hot at highway speeds problem. At high speeds, that airflow coming into the radiator should be more than adequate to cool. You only really need a fan while not moving or moving slowly. What you should do is properly utilize your puller fan. I'm guessing you are just hanging it from the radiator like ive seen a lot of people do around here. Treat your electric fan just like mechanical fan and use a shroud that covers the entire radiator. Here is what I use with my 68's radiator:
http://www.northernfactory.com/HIGH_...NG/1968/Z40069
http://www.northernfactory.com/HIGH_...NG/1968/Z40069
#4
If you're getting hot on the highway it could be a sign you're thermostat is stuck open. I'd start there. Putting another fan in front of the radiator will not solve your getting hot at highway speeds problem. At high speeds, that airflow coming into the radiator should be more than adequate to cool. You only really need a fan while not moving or moving slowly. What you should do is properly utilize your puller fan. I'm guessing you are just hanging it from the radiator like ive seen a lot of people do around here. Treat your electric fan just like mechanical fan and use a shroud that covers the entire radiator. Here is what I use with my 68's radiator:
http://www.northernfactory.com/HIGH_...NG/1968/Z40069
http://www.northernfactory.com/HIGH_...NG/1968/Z40069
Here it was with the shroud but with the fan inside which probably had a negative effect
Unless I move the rad forward I have 1/2 inch to the pump which I discovered is likely from a 70 or later as it is a driver side outlet. I dont know if those pumps stick out further but I can only get 2more inches at best.
I guess I have to hope bringing the condensor back helps.
#5
I want to say something really but really stupid so, my apologies in advance but...
did you check the fan wires? is it running on the right direction? the airflow should be the same as the driving airflow.
I'm sorry about that but I didn't understand well if the fan was originally mounted on reverse or not
did you check the fan wires? is it running on the right direction? the airflow should be the same as the driving airflow.
I'm sorry about that but I didn't understand well if the fan was originally mounted on reverse or not
#6
I want to say something really but really stupid so, my apologies in advance but...
did you check the fan wires? is it running on the right direction? the airflow should be the same as the driving airflow.
I'm sorry about that but I didn't understand well if the fan was originally mounted on reverse or not
did you check the fan wires? is it running on the right direction? the airflow should be the same as the driving airflow.
I'm sorry about that but I didn't understand well if the fan was originally mounted on reverse or not
#7
You had this problem when you replaced the radiator or there was something else before?
#8
I am tempted to replace the pump but I use to run cool after the rad was installed but before the AC....should probably just pony up and do it. I dont know if she was ever burped correctly so I will try to do that as well and check with the cap off to make sure the impeller is pushing well.