JonnyW

Well guys, I know I recently made a thread not too long ago about mods, but I'm going to be purchasing a bunch over the course of the year.
Now, I need your help on the order in which I purchase and install! List the orders for me I'll be putting lots of pictures on, before and after, because I'm upgrading the appearance too. We're talking $20,000+ into this car over 8 months worth in time.

MGW Short Shifter
Airaid Race Intake
Bama Tune
Borla S Type Catback
Borla XR1 Headers
Boss 302 Intake Manifold
Boss 302 Tower Strut Bar
Ford Racing EV6 High Flow Injectora
Ford Racing Throttle Body (what millimeter?)
Eibach Pro System Plus
Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch
Exedy Lightweight Racing Flywheel
Aluminum Driveshaft
Comp Cams Stage 3 XFI NSR Camshafts
Rear Brembo Package
Powerslotted Rotors
American Racing Nova Wheels 20" Staggard
Front Nitto NT555 275/35
Rear Nitto NT555R 305/35
OR Goodyear Eagle F1, opinions?

Thanks guys!

Andy13186

wheres the supercharger?

VistaBlueFrank68

MGW Short Shifter (with bottom bracket or you're 1/2 stepping)
Airaid Race Intake (Stock CAI is fine with a K&N filter)
Bama Tune(SCT my fav, what ever stay away smart phone type, flakey)
Borla S Type Cat-back(Stock exh good unless LT then do clutch first)
Borla XR1 Headers (know the pipe diameter or end up with Frankenstein exhaust)
Boss 302 Intake Manifold (Yeah baby! adapter kit $109?)
Boss 302 Tower Strut Bar (gotta sell the GT)
Ford Racing EV6 High Flow Injectors (doing PnC on heads? talk to mech's, don't need)
Ford Racing Throttle Body (what millimeter?) (84.5mm, again talk to Mech's PnC)
Eibach Pro System Plus (Good all match better coordination with parts)
Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch (D/D?, going to need to parallel park)
Exedy Lightweight Racing Flywheel (Might as well got the trans off anyway)
Aluminum Driveshaft (BMR safety loops also stiff frame, Steel clutch line plastic is weak)
Comp Cams Stage 3 XFI NSR Camshafts (Crack the heads PnC, might not need)
Rear Brembo Package (Boss Low Expansion lines all four $90 or steel $2-300)
Powerslotted Rotors
American Racing Nova Wheels 20" Staggard
Front Nitto NT555 275/35 (Ask a shop first not sure might rub on a bounce and turn)
Rear Nitto NT555R 305/35 (Adjustable PanHard for sure)
OR Goodyear Eagle F1, opinions? (Winter driving? rain - hydroplane - u tube you

Other options Suspension nice to keep all alike better computability with function.
Ex: All Eirbach shocks, struts, springs, sway.
BMR LCA, UCA, Lower Control Bracket (LCB)anti wheel hop.
Bump Steer and Cam-Bolts maybe Steada X-11 bigger ball joints.

Fixing a disaster is more expensive then pre-bomb proofing, my 2013 GT/CS has FR 3.73, FR rear diff plate, Shaftmaster 4" alum one piece driveshaft with steel braided hydraulic clutch lines, BMR safety loops which stiffen that huge trench the shaft sits in. Next Alloy diff shafts
maybe ARP hub bolts? Not sure if I'll need, Spec clutch and fly (Stage 1) gets me around 600 ft lbs. And the Traction Loc Posi is out of here, Maybe a Yukon/Detroit. Posi-traction units all have different strengths and weaknesses.

Lots of power you have no control of is dangerous. And breakdowns cost more then beef-ups.
And some of the big engine mods you might not need, go with a Super Charger and much of it goes in the dumper behind the speed shop.

outceltj

yeup supercharge it

JonnyW

VistaBlueFrank, thank you for all of the feedback. I'll check into the information on what you've posted. In the future I probably will throw a blower on but I want all of my other engine modifications finished first.

VistaBlueFrank68

Cool beans JonnyW enjoy that Boss intake 60-100 scary fast, and you should be able to sell it once you go F/I, you will need an adapter kit for the intake. All of the GT piping doesn't work on a Boss $120 maybe. I've been warned also to do LT headers after Clutch
work because of accessibility issue or why not together? Others have said they had to move the engine for LT. I'm apprehensive about that, these are complex system, high tolerance machines not like cars but more like airplanes. When I'm about finished with mine I'll have about 20K over cost invested.

Your crazy! You could have gotten a Boss. Yeah but then I wouldn't have heated seats.
Later

CMcNam

I didn't see much for suspension. No good having all that power if the suspension can't handle it.

Supercharge it.

miner999r

Wow an extra $20 K spend. I think I would have started with a Boss right off the hop. But that's me; I like the idea of engineered factory install; unless you have a shop and skilled techs you can rely on.

JonnyW

I didn't want the boss because I would have never wanted to touch it lol even if I wanted to replace the door pins, I would have felt guilty. The GT for me is much more practical because I figured I save money after the purchase for mods I can do myself I'll be looking more into suspension as I upgrade the car but for now we'll play it by ear. Dont forget to respond to my most recent thread on shift **** measurements. That would be a huge help to me.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-s...surements.html.

UPRSharad

This. Suspension & tires are the foundation. IMO, they should be done first.